New York Fashion Week: the best time of the season came and went without nearly any kind of the attention it would get in a "normal" September. Many designers opted for lookbooks instead of runways and the ones that insisted the show go on set up in places shows have yet to go... like Manhattan rooftops (and not the Dream Downtown kind).
However, instead of focusing on the losses, we're here to talk about the positives. Many shows displayed a bright optimism to contrast the dark season the world is in. Some even tailored their looks to knowing we now have a much bigger appreciation for comfortable home clothes. Others looked at Spring/Summer '21 as a hope that we'll be blossoming into our social scenes once again. Face masks were very prevalent in some shows and others did completely without. Regardless, whether a designer's strategy was to promote the new CDC-approved accessories or not, one thing across the board remained the same- the new world has taken over.
Below are my personal reviews on some of the best shows and my favorite looks from each:
The Best of NYFW SS21
Zero + Maria
Maria Cornejo kept the reality of the moment present in her lookbook this season from models wearing masks and even the entire lookbook being shot on a rooftop in the city, keeping things close to home. The fluidity of her pieces is beautiful and leads us to be assured we will be staying cool and relaxed in Spring/Summer 2021, a contrasting to the heat and rigidness in the air of this summer.
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Favorite Looks: Look 3, Look 10, Look 11, Look 24
Tom Ford
The king of NYFW (despite showing in LA last season... we'll forgive) shows us in his SS21 lookbook how sweatpants can be sexy. Tom Ford labeled elastic waistbands make a frequent appearance in his lookbook and we're here for it. Tom Ford chose bright colors and photographed the models laughing in his lookbook to allow us, the viewer, to escape to a more playful world.
Favorite Looks: Look 9, Look 14, Look 26
Tomo Koizumi
Koizumi's lookbook was filled with pieces showing us what fashion is all about: art worn on the physical form. Even better, Koizumi's entire collection is made from deadstock fabric. The elaborate detailing, gorgeous color choices of these pieces, AND emphasis on sustainability are what made this show a must-include on the best of the week.
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Favorite Looks: Look 7, Look 14, Look 15
Khaite
Khaite, which has a major fashion cult brand, took the dark reality of our times and put it into a lookbook this NYFW. The pieces, still very much in line with the brand's aesthetic, were photographed in a tenebrous room with shadows and an almost too serious look on every model. The brand makes it clear they are respecting the reality of the times, the dark places it has brought people, and are not trying to push it aside. In terms of pieces, the large Khaite totes look to be traveling with us to the next year (we love practicality) as well as strong shoulders (a sign of women empowerment).
Favorite Looks: Look 2, Look 6, Look 10, Look 21
Zimmermann
Zimmermann, as optimistic as they typically are, was all about flowy and floral pieces for SS21. This is appreciated more now than ever. Next season can be the bloom we are all waiting for from this dark year. And we can do so all while wearing both bright yellow and dusty pink dresses that their runway inspired.
Favorite Looks: Look 11, Look 29, Look 33
Eckhaus Latta
Models all fully masked and under the FDR drive. That is how Eckhaus Latta displayed their SS21 show. One of the best shows this season to reflect the current times (and most likely what will stick around for spring and summer as well). Clear PVC heels resembled being barefoot while relaxed knits and loose silhouette pants took the show.
Favorite Looks: Look 3, Look 6, Look 12
Head to vogue.com to see more looks from my favorite collections from this season!
Spring/Summer 2021 Trends
Now comes the fun part. Predicting what the trends for the season will catch so we can get our hands on them before everyone else does! Here's what are good bets so you can start planning now:
- Aqua: Shows (and presentations) weren't shy of the 2021 Pantone color of the year. Bright blues in all forms overall were seen across the board.
- Coral: This bright mix of pink and red showed up on many shows in many forms. A good indicator that we'll be seeing more of it.
- Floral prints: it's no surprise spring brings floral prints. However, this season brings everything from even patterns to beautiful watercolor florals.
- Floor length, wide-leg pants: Perhaps a nod to tailors being closed for the majority of this past winter. Pants that go well beyond grazing the floor in a wide-leg shape were all over the runway, signaling a comfortable spring ahead.
- Knitwear: Moving away from completely oversized, knits are showing up a little slimmer fitted for SS21. They showed up in all forms on multiple shows and we won't be surprised if (and when) knit pants start making an appearance at the end of winter, beginning of spring.
- Large shoulders: a sign of strength and power, particularly for women, large shoulders began making an appearance this season and will continue to do so in SS21.
Did you have a favorite show of the week? What were your favorite looks? Let us know in the comments below!
